You've probably seen them everywhere on social media: people with their faces covered by disturbing LED masks that emit colored lights. They seem to have come out of a science fiction movie, and in fact their origin is more space-age than you think: it was NASA researchers, in the 90s, who discovered the potential of phototherapy.
But now that these LED masks have become a must-have for at-home skincare, it's time to understand whether the colorful glow hides real effectiveness or just well-packaged marketing.
LED Masks: How the Light Magic Works
The mechanism behind the LED masks has a name that sounds very much like a science fiction movie: photobiomodulation, a technology on which there is a lot of experimentation going on, not only on a dermatological level. The doctor Samantha Venkatesh, dermatologist of Rush University Medical Group of Chicago, explains that these are specific wavelengths that cause skin cells to behave differently.
It's not magic, but pure physics: each color has a specific wavelength that penetrates the skin at different depths. Red light, for example, travels around 700 nanometers and goes deeper.
“They both penetrate the skin at different depths, and that determines what they are working on,” explains Venkatesh, referring to the two main types of light used.
Red or Blue? The Color Dilemma
The choice of light color is not an aesthetic question, but purely functional.
Other examples? The Red light stimulates collagen production, helping to reduce wrinkles. The blue light, with a wavelength between 400 and 500 nanometers, stays on the surface longer and fights the bacteria that cause acne.
Some devices also offer amber, green, yellow, and white lights, but the price increases proportionally with the number of options.
The real question is: do they really work?
Science says that…
Scientific studies paint a chiaroscuro picture. For red light, some research Part 2007 e 2017 have shown promising results in reducing wrinkles. But for blue light, the situation is more nebulous.
A 2019 meta-analysis on the effectiveness of LED against acne has yielded mixed results. As Venkatesh says: “Some studies showed benefits, some didn’t. We don’t have robust, definitive data.”
Most research has focused on professional devices used in medical offices, with in-depth studies of home versions lacking.
Safe Use Guide
If you are thinking of purchasing one of these LED masks, here are some essential tips. First of all, choose only approved devices, to ensure that the device has been tested and actually emits the desired wavelengths.
When you start using them, consistency is essential: 10-15 minute sessions are needed, 3-5 times a week. And cleaning is also essential: use the mask on a clean face, before skincare products, and clean it with alcohol wipes after each use.
Finally, opt for masks with integrated eye protection. This is not an option, but a necessity to protect your eyesight in the long run.
Who should avoid them?
Not all that glitters is gold. Some people should stay away from LED masks: those who suffer from photosensitive disorders, lupus o melasma, for example. Those taking certain antibiotics such as doxycycline or minocycline should also be careful.
These drugs increase sensitivity to light, and Venkatesh advises against the combined use of antibiotics and LED therapy. It is always best to consult a dermatologist before starting treatment.
LED Masks: The Final Verdict
The doctor Venkatesh remains cautiously optimistic. “It feels good,” she admits, “and for those who want to do their utmost to combat facial aging, it’s worth adding to their routine. But it’s crucial to choose the right device and take the right precautions.”
It occurs to me that, as often happens in skincare, the truth lies somewhere in the middle. LED masks are neither miraculous nor useless: they are a tool that, if used correctly and with the right expectations, can make its contribution. But remember: no device replaces a good basic routine and a healthy lifestyle. Even if it shines like a Christmas tree.
