The Israeli startup Pluri wants to change the rules of the game in the world of coffee. Using cellular agriculture technology, the company's technicians have created a cultivated coffee that they say is perfectly identical to that obtained from plantations. Could this be the answer to the environmental problems caused by traditional coffee cultivation? It's not that simple, I have to say as a Neapolitan. Let's proceed calmly.
Is the era of cell-based cultivated coffee anticipated?
When in 2021 the Finnish startup VTT showed his first tests of “cellular” coffee, he estimated a journey of at least 5 years before arriving at a stable version of this product. The innovation carried out by Pluri appears to have arrived sooner than expected, representing a significant step in solving some of the most pressing environmental challenges associated with coffee production.
With cellular agriculture, Multiple aims to produce coffee under controlled conditions, drastically reducing the use of water, land and the emission of greenhouse gases. An approach that promises a lower environmental impact (reduces water use by 98%) and also offers potential stability in the coffee market, increasingly subject to fluctuations due to climate change.
Cellular coffee, technical challenges and market prospects
Despite the enthusiasm, Pluri's path to market obviously presents some unknowns. Laboratory coffee production requires advanced biotechnology expertise and an efficient production scale to be competitive.
The process begins with the extraction of cells from the coffee plant, followed by a cell expansion step in a 3D bioreactor. This method could transform the entire sector, offering a product that maintains the organoleptic qualities of traditional coffee, but with a significantly reduced ecological footprint.
The regulatory issue and consumer acceptance
A fundamental aspect in the marketing of cultivated coffee is regulation. Pluri will need to obtain approval from regulatory bodies, an essential step to ensure the safety and quality of the product. The Israeli startup is moving along the regulatory path with the aim of obtaining the GRAS (Generally Recognized as Safe) label from the FDA, an important preliminary step to access the American market.
And in Italy? We are home to a long and proud coffee tradition, complete with experts, schools and of coffees and roasteries. Products such as cultivated coffee may encounter resistance similar to that seen with cultivated meat. Recently, the Italian government imposed restrictions on the sale of cultured meat, citing concerns over health and cultural identity – this raises questions about how a product like Pluri coffee will be received in a country that values its culinary traditions.
Conclusions and future reflections
Pluri's approach to lab-grown coffee offers a fascinating vision of how technology can help solve some of the most pressing environmental challenges. However, the success of this innovation will depend not only on its technical and ecological credentials, but also on its ability to navigate the complex regulatory landscape and gain consumer trust.
In this context, the balance between innovation and tradition becomes crucial, requiring an open and informed dialogue between producers, regulators and consumers. Maybe in front of a good coffee: you choose the origin.
